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50 North puts fresh twist on American standards

50 North

5001 25th Ave. N.E., Seattle

206-397-3939

www.50NorthRestaurant.com

Reservations: Accepted.

Hours: Open daily; breakfast 8 a.m.-2 p.m.; lunch 11:30 a.m.-4 p.m.; happy hour 4-6 p.m.; dinner 5-9 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 5-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Prices: $$/$$$ (Breakfast $8-$12; appetizers $5-$12; lunch entrees $9-$16; dinner entrees $12-$36)

Drinks: Full bar; moderately priced Northwest oriented wine list.

Parking: Free in underground garage.

Sound: Moderate.

Who should go: Sophisticated yet family friendly; as comfortable for two as it is for a crowd; options for vegans, vegetarians and those with special dietary needs.

Credit cards: All major.

Access: No obstacles.

Melinda Sontgerath must have eyes in the back of her head. On a rollicking Friday night, the chic blond owner of 50 North stood facing the kitchen pass-through of her U District restaurant. Dressed like the businesswoman she is, in a fitted sapphire jacket and narrow skirt, she nevertheless moved as nimbly as a quarterback, expediting tickets, trading quips with the kitchen manager, giving plates the once-over and a final wipe around the rim before passing them off to servers. The youthful staff that swirled around her executed plays like a cohesive, well-practiced team.

This is not always the case at 50 North. On visits at breakfast, lunch and dinner, I encountered servers that were tentative, even lackadaisical. But they were also unfailingly pleasant, and the kitchen team pretty much delivers what the menu promises: "great good food."

The bill of fare puts a modern spin on a virtual hit parade of American standards. It's reasonably priced considering the kitchen's preference for organic, natural or sustainably raised ingredients. And while the menu says, in effect: give me your vegans, vegetarians and your gluten intolerant; send these, the dairy and cholesterol-challenged to me — it doesn't forsake indulgence. Breakfast includes airy doughnuts (gratis before 11 a.m.) and brioche bread pudding French toast. Later on there are hamburgers, fish and chips, pasta, pizza, steak, seafood and fried chicken.

I spied Sontgerath one afternoon heading for the kitchen bearing a lofty apple pie, a star among desserts, baked at her other restaurant, The Hardware Store, on Vashon Island, where she resides. She is courier, as well, for the island produce that tends to steal the show here.

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